Recording conversations on an iphone is pretty simple once you know how, but I had to spend a couple days and repeated trips to Radio Shack to figure it out. If you need to make professional recordings of both sides of your conversations, such as for interviews, this approach is a winner.
So here’s what you’ll need:
1. iPhone (with earbuds that have inline mic).
2. Zoom H4N.
3. A professional microphone that uses XLR jack (I used my Octava MK-012).
4. An XLR cable.
5. A 3.5mm jack splitter (part number 42-2570 at Radio Shack).
6. A 3.5mm male to 3.5mm male audio cable (part number 42-2497 at Radio Shack).
The xlr mic is necessary to record your voice; the splitter running from the phone to the Zoom records the voice of the person you’re talking to. (You might think that your voice would be included on the splitter line, since you’re talking on a mic that transmits via that line – but it’s not.
To configure the Zoom, set the recording mode to “4 Channel,” which allows you to record input from the 3.5mm jack on the back AND from the XLR jacks simultaneously. It’s totally professional because your voice and the voice of the person you’re speaking with are recorded onto separate tracks, which is ideal for editing later in Soundtrack Pro and Final Cut. You can control the recording levels independently as well.
NOTE: At first I thought I could get this to work even more simply by using the Zoom H4N’s built-in mics to record my outgoing audio. But the built in stereo mic is disabled when you plug in the 3.5mm external mic jack. Hence, the need to use an XLR mic to pick up your side of the conversation.
In this 30-second test conversation with my wife, which I edited in a very simple Soundtrack Pro multitrack project (see graphic), if you listen very carefully beginning halfway through, you can hear my wife’s voice being picked up by the very sensitive Octava mic from sound bleeding through from the earbuds. I replaced my earbuds partway through with proper Sennheiser 280 Pro circumaural headphones to keep any sound from spilling out, and for that you’ll need a third-party external mic such as the Shure Music Phone adapter. You can hear Lara telling me initially that it sounds like I’m on speaker phone when I’m using the Apple earbuds, but as soon as I hooked up the Shure, she noted a major improvement in sound. So here’s a snapshot of my final setup for professionally recording iphone interviews, below.
I’m still in the early stages of developing my style as a filmmaker, and one technique that I’m already noticing is becoming part of my style is to record audio and video separately in two takes. That is, have a sit-down with the interview subject in which there are no cameras present – just audio recording. This puts people at ease, because they can focus on what they are saying, not HOW they are saying it, or how they LOOK while saying it. I find it makes for more authenticity, and it’s nice to be able to focus on JUST getting great audio in this pass.
Then I schedule a second session with the subject, in which it’s all about the video. I DO record reference audio with a camera-mounted shotgun mic during this second session, but find I rarely use this audio.
Breaking these steps into two also allows me to do everything: I can run sound the first day with a boom pole, and work the camera the second day. Of course not all shoots allow for the luxury of two days of shooting, and I do work with a great sound guy who is a student at Art Institute of Seattle when needed. But at this point in my career, part of the joy of filmmaking is doing it all. I missed film school, so it’s the only way to learn.
Ok so back to the reason I made this post: Using this approach creates a big long audio file, usually about an hour long, with a lengthy interview, which I then carve up into the much briefer segments needed for the edit. Initially, I would drop the file into Final Cut, and slice and dice until it was about right, before sending it to Sound Track Pro for sweetening and repair.
The problem I run into, though, is that since I’m essentially working on the same big long clip, just sliced into different segments, FCP gets unhappy when I try to send individual clips over to Sound Track for repair.
The solution: Drop the whole audio file into FCP, then immediately, before you do anything, send it to Soundtrack (ctrl-click the audio file, then select “send to > soundtrack pro audio file project”). Then apply a Limiter filter to limit the dynamic range of the entire interview, which means the quiet bits will have more volume and the loud bits won’t be too loud. For the details of how to do this, follow this step-by-step tutorial from Larry Jordan on using the Soundtrack Pro Limiter Filter.
Starting with my audio more or less correct at the beginning of the editing process has helped me immensely to get the rest of the mix right, ie, music at approximately the right level, etc.
Glidetrack arrives from UK in a securely packaged tube
When filming things that don’t move, it’s sometimes nice to set the camera in motion. The opening sequence of my first film Shine, for example, is a tracking shot of a crowd made using on a dolly at Fremont Studios here in Seattle. The smooth motion creates a sense that you are taking the audience on a journey, that the story is beginning to unfold. Since then I’ve had my eye out for a way to achieve this effect that doesn’t require a small army of technicians and a fat bank account.
What's in the tube
So when I read about Glidetrack, I was intrigued. After doing a bunch of research, I ordered one just before Christmas (I like to think of it as a gift to anyone who watches my future films). With FedEx shipping, the only option provided, the total was $355. I also considered a Pegasus Carbon System from Cinevate, but it costs $850 configured the way I wanted it. The difference between $350 and $850 is – for me – the difference between actually making the purchase and thinking about it. Although I’d sure love to get my hands on a Pegasus some day.
The Glidetrack arrived via FedEx in a 4″ diameter tube, into which the Glidetrack was carefully packed for overseas shipping from the UK, where they are made by Alistair Brown. Taking it out of the packaging, it’s immediately clear that this is a really solid, simple device: a 1-meter-long piece of aluminum with some channels for the slider, which is already attached, and holes for mounting it on a tripod.
Assembly is a snap
It’s a snap to put Glidetrack together using the included hex wrench – you simply bolt the end pieces on, and you’re done. The end pieces have soft rubber feet that allow you to use the Glidetrack as a table dolly, or on a nice hardwood floor, without leaving any scratches. The big question in my mind: is it possible to mount the 1-meter long Glidetrack on my tripod from a single point in the middle and have it be stable enough? Or would it require two tripods, one mounted under each end piece?
Good to go
I tested out the Glidetrack by making a short film starring the chandelier in our upstairs media room (which I’ll post later – you can see another film I made with it below). I mounted the Glidetrack on the quick-release plate of my Manfrotto 755XB tripod, which has a 501HD fluid head (which FYI I’m replacing with a 701HD head – the 501 is too heavy for use with this tripod and makes it top heavy). The Glidetrack felt stable once I mounted it to the tripod, although I had to really crank the quick-release far tighter than normal to keep the Glidetrack from slipping from side to side while using it.
Tip: Use a ball or fluid head
The gliding platform of the Glidetrack contains a standard 1/4″ mount which you could twist your camera onto. But that would mean you’d have to adjust your tripod legs to tilt the lense. Ideally you’d mount a small fluid head on this. I used a Manfrotto ball head, which does the job fine for under $40.
I mounted up my JVC GY HM-100, and tested out the stability by sliding the camera all the way out to the edge of the Glidetrack. It does dip a bit from the weight of the camera, maybe a half inch total. And, I found that my already top-heavy tripod almost began to tip when the camera reached the end of the rail in some angled positions – I think this will improve when I swap in a lighter head.
Tip: use rubber band for silky slow movement
I pushed the camera from one end of the track to the other, and the first thing I noticed was the sound: it’s a noticeable swish, but not loud. The faster you push, the louder it gets. But slowing it down, it’s almost inaudible. This would be a problem if you plan to use a shotgun mic to record audio while you’re filming. But for this type of shot, it’s common to use externally recorded audio or track the shot over music, which is what I did. The small noise factor is a tradeoff I’m willing to make to have such such a small, portable, inexpensive piece of equipment (if quiet operation is of critical importance, check out the Cinevate Pegasus carbon fiber system I mentioned previously).
Now for the fun part. I positioned the tripod and Glidetrack under my chandelier, and took my first shot by starting the camera, then pushing the track from one side to the other. The unit slides easily and uniformly. I noticed, however, that my first movements were not perfectly even, resulting in some very slight jerkiness. So I resorted to a trick I learned for smoothing out tripod pans: using an elastic band to pull the handle rather than by touching it directly. That way, the rubber band absorbs the small jerks and the whole thing moves smoothly. I’m afraid I have shakier than normal hands, so I have to use this technique as standard procedure. Works great.
You can see the results in this short film I made using the Glidecam:
A couple of filmmaker tips I learned while producing this:
1. You can actually do some interesting, crane-like shots with the Glidecam by turning the tripod head and thus the Glidecam track, while at the same time pulling the slider down the track. However, it’s difficult for one person to manage both with perfect smoothness.
2. To make the unit rock solid, you will want to mount it on two tripods, one under each foot. It’s solid with just the one center mounted, but I had to wait for minor bouncing to subside after moving the camera all the way to the end of the track before starting a new shot. I’m willing to put up with a little instability for the added range of motion and ease of repositioning that comes with using a single tripod.
3. You have to move the camera REALLY SLOW, slower than you think, to produce silky results. You can use the elastic band tip (mentioned above) to accomplish this without jerkiness.
I’m thrilled with the results of my first Glidecam shoot. It’s a tad long for taking everywhere, perhaps why the unit is available in a half-meter length. But I like having the full meter of runway to work with. I also like that Glidecam appears to be an indie product, produced by a guy with a name whose Twitter account I can ping to say: Thank you, Alistair Brown, for a producing a solid, affordable tool that puts smooth tracking shots within easy reach of documentary filmmakers.
Zachary Levy taught another solid 3-hour workshop this afternoon at Northwest Film Forum. I’ve had a fair bit of mostly self-taught experience with lighting, so I was curious to see how my technique stacked up. I picked up these great tips, as well as a raft of lingo that’s new to me. Armed with this info, I feel more confident that I can speak the language of lighting with other professionals. Which was totally worth the $35 workshop fee. Here’s the highlights (so to speak):
750 stand – a sturdy light stand that is more solid than standard light stands, perfect for supporting heavier fixtures such as the Arri 650 fresnel light that we were using today.
Power math – When arriving at a location, you need to do some simple math before you start plugging in lights, or you risk tripping a breaker halfway through the interview. Typical households in the US operate 15 amp circuits, at 120 volts. Professional lights like the Arri 650 list the wattage they consume in their name, which means the Arri 650 consumes 650 watts. Here’s the formula:
Watts divided by Volts = Amps.
So in our case with one 650 watt light + one 300 watt light, that means we’d do this math:
950 / 120 = 8 amps.
In this case, we know that we’re fine to run both of those lights on the same circuit, because 8 amps is only about half of the 15 amp maximum for the typical household. Commercial buildings typically support up to 20 amps per circuit. It’s important to remember that a circuit isn’t just the same plug outlet – it’s usually all the outlets in the same room, so you’ll need to run an extension cord (commonly called a stinger in film set lingo) to tap another circuit.
Striking – when turning on a powerful light on set, it’s common to alert everyone that a potentially blinding light is about to go on by yelling “striking” (as in striking a match).
Color bars – In interview situations, it’s common to use a field monitor to get a really good picture of what you’re getting while you’re getting it. And prior to every use, it’s good practice to calibrate the monitor quickly by displaying the camera’s color bars. It’s simple: switch to “blue only” mode, which turns the color bars all grey, then adjust the chroma, luminance, and brightness until the top of the bars most closely matches the bottom. For brightness, turn it up all the way, until you can see three short bars in the lower right. Then turn it down until the brightest of the bars is just barely visible. Bingo: you’re calibrated.
Just 5 stops – most prosumer video cameras see only about 5 stops of light between the brightest white and the blackest black. Our eye sees thousands of levels.
100 percent zebra – Zach recommends setting zebra stripes to 100 percent so that you can see where the 100 percent white is clipping, and use your eye to gauge the lesser levels, rather than setting zebra’s to kick in at 70 or 80 percent, because then you can’t tell the difference between 70 and 100.
Chair test – prior to the interview, make sure chair that will be used doesn’t squeek, rock or rotate. Obvious stuff, but easy to overlook and can kill a great moment in your interview if you don’t plan ahead.
Scrim – Red scrim is typically a double-strength scrim that cuts light by a full stop; green scrim is half-strength scrim that cuts light by a half stop.
C-47 – it’s not an airplane; it’s not a high explosive. It a fancy name for wooden clothes pins, used to attach gels and diffusion to c-stands.
Assume the position – it’s a convention to position the interviewer so that they are close to the camera between the camera and the key light. This way, the subject is looking more into the light. Also, position interviewee to one side of the frame – not in the middle. Then, you can position the next interviewee on the other side, and they’ll intercut better (not always in same place). Reframe during questions. Keep camera on sticks, but don’t lock it down fully – be ready to follow interviewee.
Pack black garbage bags – and gaffer’s tape to mask out unwanted window light when you’re trying to fully control the lighting for an interview.
Clothing – avoid pattern shirts on interview subjects (because it causes nasty moiree pattern on video). White is also bad – it’s too hard to lighten face relative to shirt.
I had the privilege of participating this afternoon in a cinéma vérité workshop taught by documentary filmmaker Zachary Levy. He’s in town for the Seattle screening of his first feature documentary, 3 years in the making, Strongman. It opened last night and deserves a much bigger audience than the handful of people who showed up to see it last night at Northwest Film Forum (I’ll be blogging a filmmaker review of the film soon).
As a cameraman on big shows like Oprah and 60 Minutes, Zach has a ton of experience in how NOT to make the kind of films he wants to make. Citing influences like Al and David Maysles, Zach pursues a simpler, “truthier” style in his own filmmaking known as cinéma vérité.
Eschewing even common cinematic accompaniments such as music (there is only one song in Strongman, and it accompanies the credit roll), Levy strips artifice to the bone, leaving his characters with nothing to be but themselves. To make this kind of film, Levy says, you want to find a subject who WANTS something – the stuff of classic character-driven plot. Then you start shooting, and trust that what happens will be interesting. Levy compared this approach to filmmaking with a jazz musician’s improvisational approach to music: the notes that are in front of you determine the ones you play next.
Here’s 12 things I learned from Levy today:
1. Hold the Shot. When you THINK the action is finished and you’ve got it, force yourself to count to 10. Something even more perfect just might happen, OR you might get something that will make your edit easier.
2. Wear long pants. Translation: be willing to use your body to get the shot. That means kneeling, standing for long periods of time, stretching beforehand, getting physical with it.
3. Keep your camera close. Simple body mechanics, but something I’ve overlooked: when you hold the camera in your hands actually touching your stomach or chest, it’s not only braced and more stable, but it’s better supported, so you can shoot much longer without getting tired.
4. Always shoot SHOTS. That is, think like a still photographer and frame things so they look good. That doesn’t mean going all “Living in Oblivion” style. But do shoot pretty rather than just shoot.
5. Look for the conflict. Stories that make for good verite involve conflict of some kind. In the case of Strongman, the conflict was mostly internal.
6. Shoot first, get releases later – if at all. Learning this one fact was worth twice the price of the workshop. As a former photojournalist, I have a solid working knowledge of “fair use” doctrine. But I’d been led to believe by other filmmakers that since films were commercial in nature, different rules applied. That turns out not to be the case with documentaries. Get releases when you can, he said, but don’t let NOT having them stop you from making your film. Got it.
7. Use signs as a form of narration. Levy included a brief “welcome to Orlando” sign in one scene as a way of revealing to audience where the action was happening, since the film has no narration.
8. Use visual metaphors. In one scene, Levy consciously includes a clock in the background to emphasize the fact that time was passing as one of the characters celebrates her birthday.
9. Watch the line. It’s an established filmmaking convention to keep characters on the same side of the frame throughout a scene, to avoid confusion about who’s who. You can break this convention, but be aware of it, and do it consciously for a reason.
10. Watch for repeat behavior. People behave predictably – so observe that and use it to your advantage. Over the years of filming, he came to know exactly where Stan would sit, and was able to make subtle adjustments to the table beforehand so that light would fall just enough to light the scene without Levy having to intervene.
11. Keep lighting simple. Levy was able to get acceptable levels of light in most of the scenes in Strongman by simply replacing the standard 60-watt bulbs with 80- or 100-watt bulbs. Side benefit: the natural light of the place was preserved, and he didn’t have to do any additional work to light the sets. Drawback was he had to use a big shoulder-bourne camera that was capable of shooting in low light. (That is less true today with small cameras with fat sensors like the Canon 5d).
12. Sound guy should “fade away.” Levy’s crew consisted of just one person – a person to record sound. And he made clear to this person that he or she was not to make eye contact with the subjects, as much as possible, so that there wasn’t any relationship developing that would show up on camera and have to be edited out.
Levy’s teaching another workshop tomorrow from noon-3pm, which I’ll attend and blog. Meanwhile, if you’re interested in seeing what a Slamdance-winning cinema verite film looks like, don’t miss this chance to see Strongman – it’s showing at NW Film Forum through Jan. 14.